Oaxacan Spears – San Cristobal de las Casas

I had to ride up into to the highlands of Chiapas to track down the fabled Oaxacan Spears. I’d heard legends for years, of course, but they never seemed to filter up above the border.

Oaxacan Spears are entire flower tops, or collas, maybe 8 – 10 inches long and as thick as a hot dog. Kind of like giant Thai sticks. The color can vary between green (fresher) through light brown (cured). Each spear would weigh in at around 10 – 20 grams. These were the real deal.

No seeds at all – the campesinos had discovered the art of growing sinsemilla – just hairy, sticky, stinky flowers. The heads would be tightly wrapped with hemp twine around the main stem making for an attractive and aromatic package. They just felt good to hold. And smoke. Just a couple of hits would send you to a happy place and keep you there.

Vendors could be found at the market or plaza. You could bargain them down to 50 pesos per spear, same cost as Tulum but twice the volume and at least twice the potency. One spear would last for weeks and make you very popular.

San Cristobal de las Casas was awash in Oaxacan. Discretely, of course, everyone in town was stoned. Shop keepers, café operators, street hawkers. Tourists. Add to that cosy little colonial-era posadas, quaint cafes with inexpensive, tasty comida typica, vibrant markets and a relaxed, laid back atmosphere. Even a public steam bath. Why would you ever want to leave?

Published by Phil Parent

Phil Parent is a geographer residing in Queenstown New Zealand.

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